While Pench National Park is the park mentioned in the Jungle Book story, my visit to Tadoba National Park in India finally gave me the opportunity to meet ‘characters’ like Sher Khan the tiger. But the visit meant more than the realisation of childhood Jungle Book dreams – a Disney movie that I must have seen a hundred times. It was an introduction to the delicious Indian cuisine, the Indian people passionate about their forests, and another opportunity to go out and do the thing I love so much… observing the wildlife.
It was the second national flight we were taking in India… and the second one being ridiculously late. So much that we missed the first afternoon safari and arrived not long before dinner. Our bad mood was immediately removed by the manager of the park who introduced us to the accommodation and the park with an enormous smile and good mood. Dinner was basically a barbeque outside, Indian style, with three levels of spiciness assigned to the dishes being prepared in order to avoid tourists burning up at once. This dinner was, without doubt, delicious and we sat down at a camp fire, listening to the stories of a bunch of local enthusiasts discussing their sightings and camera settings while enjoying the food. It became clear that these people loved Tadoba park and returned on a regular basis. But right now, there was something special…
‘Tyson’ was rumoured to have returned to the park.
Tyson, a large male tiger, roamed his large territory during the winter months to ensure his dominance. His territory spanned well beyond the National Park. After being away for a long duration walking a large circle, he was finally returning tothe park and spotted by locals. The synergy with the return of Sher Khan to the forest in the story Jungle Book is intriguing. I was wondering if while we were sitting at the campfire, the wolf pack in the park was gathering as well to discuss measures in reaction to the return of the tiger?
Next day, 6 AM and freezing cold, we set off in the jeeps, accompanied by our wildlife guide Himanshu Bagde. We spent a few hours driving around spotting animals, but no tigers were spotted. Suddenly a ranger in front of us started to wave. Did they see anything? A footprint on the road. We all drove forward rapidly and halted together. A deafening silence but no tiger.
At least…not in front of us. While we all looked forward, behind us a massive tiger started crossing the road. One ranger noticed it and told us to look backward. The sheer size of the animal struck me hard. This thing is huge. It’s bright colours and gracious movements were stunning. “It’s Tyson”, said the Ranger. It only took a few seconds for him to disappear again into the woods but with that my safari was an instant success.
The next days we did several safaris where we could witness the beautiful flora and fauna of India. A highlight spotting a beautifully posing jaguar on a tree.
But on the last safari on the last day, it was time to head back. We were still far from the park’s exit when a loud sound made by a large deer-kind of animal echoed through the woods. “Stop the car”, said Himanshu, “this is a distress call. The animal senses danger. This could mean an approaching tiger.”. We halted and waited in silence. A long minute later, another distress call. Whoever made this sound had moved quickly forward. We quickly started the car and drove forward to roughly where the sound came from. “let’s wait here, Himanshu said”. And so we waited some more. Suddenly the bushes next to us started to move, and out jumped yet another tiger, this time followed by two cups. They started drinking from the water in a small pond next to us.
Then suddenly, one of the cups noticed us. “Do NOT move, Himanshu whispered us”, as the small tiger got closer and closer to the car. Having a tiger cup a few meters in front of me is beautiful, but having its mother right behind less comfortable. Luckily the other cup, a playful one, ran alongside and the two of them started playing together right in front of the car. We were able to enjoy them playing for along time until they finally disappeared into the dense woods. Our little safari had come to a perfect ending.
Unlike some other parks, at Tadoba the rangers do not inform each other if there is a sighting. This may reduce your change of seeing what you want to see, but one shouldn’t forget the fun it brings searching for that tiger. Following the distress call of animals was an immense suspense, with a reward greater than I had seen at any safari before.
Ciao!
Robin
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