I was looking forward to seeing the landscapes of New Zealand; the hills waterfalls, forests, glaciers and mountains. Doing a bungee jump, and visiting some Lord of the Rings recording sites. One of these sites is called the Tongariro crossing. After many years of being a ‘dormant volcano’ myself when it came to hiking and mountain climbing, that particular day on the Tongariro crossing in 2011 was all I needed to get back into mountain adventures again.
Nestled in the heart of New Zealand’s North Island, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is often regarded as one of the best day hikes in the world. Spanning approximately 19.4 kilometers, this trek takes hikers across a stunning volcanic landscape, rich in natural beauty and steeped in cultural significance. The trail traverses an active volcanic area within the Tongariro National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, offering breathtaking views of craters, lakes, valleys, and snow-capped peaks.
A Dawn Start
The journey typically begins at the Mangatepopo car park, an early morning start that sees hikers stepping out into the crisp dawn air. If you’re lucky, the morning might treat you to a sunrise that bathes the landscape in shades of orange and pink, setting the tone for the day ahead. The initial stretch of the track is relatively flat, following a well-maintained trail alongside the Mangatepopo Stream, which meanders through a valley.
On either side, the landscape is punctuated by tussock grasses and scattered volcanic rocks. In the distance, the imposing presence of Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe—better known to many as “Mount Doom” from the Lord of the Rings films—loom over the valley, their rugged silhouettes hinting at the adventure that awaits.
The Devil’s Staircase
After an easy start, the trail begins its ascent up the ominously named Devil’s Staircase. The path steepens considerably, zigzagging up a slope littered with volcanic rocks and gravel. As you climb, the air becomes thinner, and the vegetation slowly disappears, giving way to a more barren and otherworldly terrain.
This is the first real test of endurance, and while it can be challenging, the rewards are immediate. As you ascend, the views expand dramatically, with the surrounding volcanic terrain coming into sharper focus. The higher you go, the more the surrounding landscape reveals its stark beauty. To the south, Mount Ngauruhoe stands tall, its perfectly symmetrical cone a reminder that this is still an active volcanic region.
South Crater: A Martian Landscape
Once you conquer the Devil’s Staircase, you’ll find yourself at the edge of the South Crater, a vast, flat expanse that looks like it could belong to another planet. The barren, windswept crater floor is surrounded by steep ridges, and the contrast between the dark volcanic rock and the bright blue sky creates a striking visual experience.
Crossing this crater feels surreal. The ground beneath your feet is a mix of fine ash and small volcanic stones, remnants of past eruptions. The silence here is palpable, with only the sound of the wind and the crunch of gravel underfoot breaking the stillness. As you make your way across, you can’t help but feel a sense of awe at the sheer scale and desolation of the landscape.
Red Crater: The High Point
From the South Crater, the track continues to climb toward the Red Crater, the highest point of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing at 1,886 meters above sea level. The ascent is steep and rocky, with loose scree underfoot making the climb a little tricky. However, the effort is well worth it when you reach the top.
The Red Crater is a volcanic marvel, its deep red and orange hues the result of oxidized iron in the rocks. Steam vents hiss from cracks in the crater walls, a reminder that this is an active volcanic zone. The crater itself is a dramatic sight, its jagged rim and deep central chasm a testament to the powerful geological forces at play.
From this vantage point, the views are nothing short of spectacular. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the distant peaks of Mount Taranaki to the west and the Kaimanawa Ranges to the east. Below, the vivid Emerald Lakes glisten like jewels, their brilliant turquoise waters contrasting sharply with the surrounding black and red volcanic rock.
The Emerald Lakes: Nature’s Gemstones
The descent from the Red Crater takes you down a steep scree slope, a somewhat tricky section of the trail that requires careful footing. But as you make your way down, your attention is quickly drawn to the vibrant Emerald Lakes below.
These stunning lakes owe their striking color to minerals leaching from the surrounding rocks. The contrast between the vivid blue-green waters and the barren volcanic landscape is truly mesmerizing, making this one of the most photographed spots on the entire hike. The lakes also have a distinct sulfuric smell, a reminder of the geothermal activity beneath the surface.
This area feels like a place suspended in time—its beauty is raw, untouched, and elemental. The steam rising from nearby vents adds to the otherworldly atmosphere, giving the impression that you’ve stepped into an ancient, primordial world.
Blue Lake and the Descent
After passing the Emerald Lakes, the trail continues its descent toward the Blue Lake, another volcanic feature that captivates hikers with its beauty. Unlike the Emerald Lakes, the Blue Lake is larger and has a deeper, more intense shade of blue. This lake is sacred to the Māori people, and hikers are asked not to swim in its waters.
From here, the trail gradually begins to level out as it winds its way down the mountain. The descent takes you through a stark, volcanic moonscape, but as you continue, the landscape slowly transforms. Volcanic rock gives way to alpine meadows, and eventually, the path enters lush, green forest.
The Ketetahi Hut and Hot Springs
Before reaching the end of the trail, you’ll pass by the Ketetahi Hut, a rest stop with spectacular views of Lake Rotoaira and, further in the distance, Lake Taupo, New Zealand’s largest lake. The hut is a great spot to take a break and reflect on the journey before the final stretch of the hike.
As you continue the descent, the vegetation becomes thicker, and you’ll start to see signs of the geothermal activity that characterizes this area. Steam vents hiss from the ground, and in some areas, you can smell the faint scent of sulfur. The trail eventually leads through a lush forest, where the sounds of birds and the rustling of leaves replace the eerie silence of the volcanic craters.
Finishing the Journey
The final section of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing takes you through dense native bush, a stark contrast to the barren, volcanic landscape that dominated the earlier part of the hike. The air here is cooler, and the scent of wet earth and greenery is refreshing after the dry, dusty conditions of the higher altitudes.
As you approach the end of the trail at the Ketetahi car park, there’s a sense of accomplishment. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is more than just a hike—it’s a journey through one of the most unique and diverse landscapes in the world. From the rugged volcanic craters to the vibrant lakes, from the windswept ridges to the tranquil forests, the Crossing offers an unforgettable adventure for anyone willing to take on the challenge.
Practical Tips for Hikers
• Weather: The weather in the Tongariro National Park is notoriously unpredictable, and conditions can change rapidly. It’s important to check the weather forecast before setting out and be prepared for anything from strong winds to rain or even snow, regardless of the season.
• Fitness: The hike is reasonably challenging and requires a fairly good level of fitness. The Devil’s Staircase and the ascent to the Red Crater are demanding, and the descent can be tough on the knees. I was at 10 km run level and did it in 6 hours. The elevation gain is almost 1200 meters. Make sure to bring plenty of water, snacks, and layers of clothing.
• Transport: Since the Crossing is a one-way track, you’ll need to arrange transport at both ends. Many shuttle services operate in the area, picking hikers up from their accommodation and dropping them at the trailhead.
In conclusion, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a must-do for anyone visiting New Zealand’s North Island. Its dramatic volcanic landscape, combined with its cultural significance and natural beauty, makes it an experience unlike any other. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or a casual adventurer, the Crossing offers an unforgettable journey through one of the world’s most extraordinary landscapes. It certainly was unforgettable to me, and started an interest leading me to climb the some of the highest mountains in the world.
Ciao!
Robin
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